Smudge Lines and Disappearing Wings, Oh My!
With a world full of so many different people and faces, it's not surprising to find that there are an abundance of unique eye shapes as well. If you’re watching "hooded eyelid" tutorials on YouTube and having trouble replicating some of your favorite look because of your eyelid shape, no worries! Men and women all throughout the beauty community have come up with ways to cater to your unique shape without going under the knife. Below are 15 different tips and tricks to keep your eyeliner on fleek!
1. Smudge-Free Eyeliner
Just like our fingerprints, our eye shapes and their creases can be unique only to us. Some people may even say that their own eye aren’t identical to one another, complaining that lack of sleep or even too much of it, alters one eye shape and crease but not the other. That being said, the different eye shapes in the beauty community call for different folds and movements which is exactly where this tip comes in. Hooded eyes tend to to have more skin around their crease which can cause makeup on the lid to transfer every time we close our eyes. In these situations, you can imagine how a smudge prone eyeliner can cause unwanted makeup disasters. Therefore, the only to avoid this mess is to invest in an eyeliner that is specifically and thankfully smudge-free. Below are two smudge-free eyeliners, both high end and drugstore, that you can try!
Bobbi Brown's Long Wear Gel Eyeliner
Revlon's Colorstay Creme Gel Eyeliner
2. Tightline Your Eyes
Although it might have looked painful when your favorite beauty guru did it in his or her video, it’s actually not too bad after a few practice sessions. If you’re not sure what it means to “tightline”, no worries! Tightlining is when you take an eyeliner pencil and run the pigment against your waterline along the upper lash line. This way, the dark color is not directly on your eyelid but creates a bolder, thicker line without taking too much space on your eye lid which in turn, will help open up the the eyes. This technique is also brilliant for asian monolid eye shapes since it enhances the lashes that might have been pushed down by skin. If you do decide to tightline, remember to choose an eyeliner pencil that is both smudge-free and waterproof!
3. Know Where to Start Your Cateye
Where you start your eyeliner really depends on your eye shape. Most makeup artists suggest starting your cateye from the outer half for hooded eyes. Not only is this a more modern approach to the traditional winged eye look but this technique gives the illusion of wider, more open eyes as well as makes them appear more almond shaped. The key to nailing this trick is to keep the line thinner near the inner corners, slowly thickening and flicking them upwards towards the outer part of the eyes. You can also add highlight to the inner corners to bring in more light and to further open up and brighten the eyes.
4. The Bigger, the Better
Hooded eyes or asian monolids can sometimes appear to be downturned because of the skin that may droop down from your brow bone. To counteract this, create a longer and more dramatic cateye by bringing your line closer to the end of your brows. This way your eye shape appears to be pulled upwards which creates a more youthful, feline look. You can also thicken the cat eye to make sure it sticks out when you open your eyes. Just don't forget to line with a smudge-free eyeliner!
5. Hooded Eyes Call for White Eyeliner
Going off a previous tip of changing where you start your eyeliner, we can do a lot more than alter our cateye location to open up tired, old eyes. White or nude eyeliner on the lower waterline can really go a long way when it comes brightening up the look. Not only does it give hooded eyes an appearance of being wider, more open but it also minimizes the look of redness in the eyes which is a total lifesaver when you’re a lady on the go! Again, don't forget to use a smudge-free and waterproof eyeliner to keep it in place!
6. Smoke Out Your Eye Makeup
This tip may be one of the best tricks for asian monolids as well as hooded eyes. Since the eye shape doesn’t have as much lid space when compared to the likes of deeper, more almond ones, there’s no reason for us to skip out on eyeliner. Since there is not such a prominent crease, at times the cateye can be harder to see. One way of making sure our eyeliner stands out is to smoke out the line. Take a brown or dark grey on a smudge brush and blend the eyeliner upwards. This not only thickens your cateye but the muted browns and greys can give your eyelids more depth and definition!
7. Hooded Eyes Need Different Lines
This is another great tip for women (and men) with either hooded eyes or monolids. While most winged eyeliner is done by following the natural shape of our eyes and by sticking as closely as we can with our lash line, when it comes to hooded eyes and their monolid counterparts, it can actually be a great idea to break free of that routine and place the line a little differently than usual. While not too drastic of a change, starting the wing of your cateye earlier and therefore creating a small space between the outer part of your lash line can help lift up hooded eyes, creating flattering angles and brighting the features.
8. Fill in the Lash Line
As said before, when it comes to monolids or hooded eye shapes, eyeliner can quickly become a tricky task. If you don't want a dramatic look but feel like your eyeliner is not showing enough, fill in the lash line! This is very different than tightlining since you are not applying eyeliner to the upper water line. This time, instead of lining above the lash line, draw your cateye right on! Don't forget to go back and thoroughly fill in between the lashes. This will ensure your eyelashes appear more voluminous and therefore make your eyes stand out!
9. Ready, SET, Go
One of the most crucial steps following your normal foundation and concealer routine, is to set everything in place with a pressed or translucent powder. Since hooded eyes or monolids get more oily than other eye shapes, the same principle can be applied here. You can set your winged eyeliner with a translucent powder to prevent the eyeliner from transferring onto the top part of the eyelid. A little goes a long way so take a small, fluffy brush and dust an equally small amount of the powder all over the lid to set and matteify!
10. Reinvent the Gradient
While the old way of blending your eyeshadow might have been following the usual V shape (inner corner, middle, outer corner), one of the best ways to create depth for hooded eyes is to blend your eyeshadow upwards! In other words, let the gradient begin from the lash line where your winged eyeliner sits. Gradually blend out the darker color into a lighter and then finally into your lightest. Therefore creating a gradient that goes from the lash line up to to just under your brows!
11. Save Space
Due to more skin around the crease, hooded eyes tend to have a small lid space. While eyeshadows might be more visible on almond eye shapes, there's no reason why a different and equally beautiful shape should stop us from experimenting with our makeup looks. The best way to make sure we still have space for eyeliner is to actually create a slimmer cat eye. When you're winged eyeliner is as close as it can be to the lash line, you have more room to play with shadows!
12. The Upside Down Cateye
In the mood for a dramatic, thick cat eye? Hooded eyes can be trickier when it comes to glam makeup especially one that involves winged eyeliner since it can disappear behind the crease. A great trick to overcome this is to actually flip the cat eye! While lining the top like usual, you can also add to the bottom lash line by rolling an eyeliner pencil across and flicking upwards at the end of your eye. Don't forget to blend to soften harsh lines and add white or nude eyeliner to the waterline!
13. Experiment With the Cut Crease
The men and women among the beauty community know all the rage about the cut crease and if this is you're first time hearing the words, no worries! The cut crease is not only just a totally new and creative way of approaching eyeshadows but it's the perfect way to fake a higher crease which can be perfect for Asian monolids or hooded eyes. One of the easiest ways is to apply a dark matte eyeshadow, something that is one or two shades darker than your skin color for a more natural look. Blend out the line for softer edges then clean up the lower part of the line with concealer. The technique may require a little more practice than the others but once mastered, it looks quite stunning!
14. Prime Those Lids
Before applying anything, whether it's your foundation or your eye makeup, primer is crucial. A good eye primer can make sure your makeup last all day as well as prevent the eyeshadows and eyeliner from transferring as you blink and move your eyes. A key factor for hooded eyes since the skin tends to fold where we apply the most eye makeup.
15. Eyes Wide Open
One of the most simple tricks listed in this post but definitely one of the harder ones if you don't have practice. Since most deep set or almond eye shapes have a more distinguishable crease, applying your makeup with your eyes open could help you master makeup for hooded eyes. With your eyes open, you will have a better idea of how and where your eyes crease and therefore a better visual understanding of the way your shadows and liners are going to look. While you can definitely blend and line with them closed, don't forget to check in the mirror between swipes!
Whether you're young or old, hooded eyes or not, above are 15 great ways to either improve your eyeliner game or switch it up! Don't forget to have fun and not to take yourself too seriously when your experimenting with your look! Makeup at the end of the day is just makeup and all eye shapes are beautiful!